Wednesday, December 11, 2013

Escoffier’s Brown Stock (Estouffade) Recipe

For those wanting to prepare their own brown stock at home I offer the following recipe.  This is from Escoffier, the master himself and hence why you’ll see words like flavour in the preparations as well as the use of grams in the ingredients list.

6000 g Beef shin on the bone
6000 g Veal knuckle (or lean veal trimmings)
1 knuckle of Raw ham, blanched
650 g Fresh pork rind, blanched
650 g Carrots, roughly chopped
650 g Onion, roughly chopped
100 g Fresh parsley
10 g Fresh thyme sprigs
5 g Whole fresh bay leaves
1 clove Garlic
14 liters of Water

Bone out the meats.  Break the bones small and lightly brown them in the oven.  Fry the carrot and onion brown in a little fat.  Prepare the stock by placing these bones, vegetables, ham, pork rind and Bouquet garni into a stockpot, add the cold water, bring to the boil, skim and simmer very gently for at least 12 hours keeping the liquid at the same level throughout this time by adding boiling water as required.  Cut the meat into very large dice, fry brown in hot fat and place in a pan.  Cover with some of the prepared stock and boil until it is reduced to a glaze; repeat this process two or three times.  Add the remainder of the stock, bring to the boil, skim to remove all fat and allow to simmer gently until all the flavour has been extracted from the meat.  Pass through a strainer and reserve for use.

Note:  When preparing brown stock which includes bones, especially those from beef, it is recommended that the procedure should be in accordance with the above recipe by first preparing a stock from the bones, simmering it gently for 12-15 hours and using it as the liquid for moistening the meat. 
It is incorrect to place all the ingredients in the stockpot and fry them together in fat before adding the water as there will be a danger of over-colouring the ingredients thus spoiling the flavour of the stock.  In practice the principle of diffusion is sufficient in itself to colour the stock; this is the most natural and suitable method of obtaining the required colour.

Yield:  2 – 4 quarts of stock, depending on how long you simmer it.

A. Escoffier.  Le guide culinaire: the complete guide to modern cookery, H.L. Cracknell & R.J. Kaufmann, transl.

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